The Belfast Jazz Scene
A breakdown of the places in Belfast where you can see jazz.
Jazz is a wonderful thing, some people like it, some hate it, others don’t get it and more just think it noise pollution, but that’s why I love it. I think of jazz much like contemporary art, where it needs to be seen to be comprehended then revisited with fresh eyes to try and again make sense of it all. your average Spotify jazz playlist doesn't express the feelings felt or unmissable moments caught, the looks from musicians across the stage, the silent communication. Notes missed and flares added. Live jazz is pure and if the musicians are truly talented, exciting. The Belfast jazz scene, although not as renowned and storied as London or perhaps as international as Dublin is, in my eyes; Youthful, rooted in it’s folk traditions while paying homage to the legends of jazz with integrity and ever growing in popularity.
I’m no critic but in this list of bars and venues I’ll have criticisms. not meant to offend or deter you, dear reader, from attending if you so wish, they’re just things I’ve noticed and didn’t really like.
BERTS JAZZ BAR
Lets get the big one out of the way first. The only one on the list that stipulates that it definitely is a jazz bar, feels like a bit of a cheat. Part of the Merchant Hotel, the service and comfortability are fantastic. And the cocktails are great (a favourite of mine is the Champs-Élysées) but it tends to feel like you’re in a very large elevator. This is not to discredit the musicians in any way, as I have enjoyed myself greatly here, however; it’s not really jazz. As a hotel bar it’s more of a place where business folk can drink away there spreadsheet induced headaches with the company card or entertain other business folk with a relaxing piano in the background, interspersed with an appreciative round-of-applause. This may just be your ticket however and if like me and my mates you like to get dressed and head out but don’t end up in the chicken shop afterwards, Bert’s is relaxing and a decent place for a cocktail but it’s just that. I once saw a great rendition of Van Morrison’s Moon Dance by the resident pianist but there was no cheers or standing ovations; just a clap long enough for him to turn and nod, then the business folk were back to business and the group of in-laws in the corner went back to planning a trip to France or whatever. I’ve not seen a band here, just Pianist with bassist and once there was a singer and probably the same set list.
… Lift heading down.
THE SUNFLOWER
A short walk through the city centre there is a Belfast institution, as it stands now the current bar has been open since 2012 but there has been a public house on this corner of Union street for over 100 years. A wonderful selection of craft beers and the classics stand firm behind the bar which is adorned with glasses, memorabilia and art work depicting Belfast’s expressive style. The chalk board on the back wall shows a packed schedule of weekly festivities including folk nights and free Spanish lessons. But Thursday jazz night, for me is always a win. Usually kicking off around 6pm and finishing too soon (around 9:30) this is a friends night, you can tell that the musicians that play here enjoy playing together and often has a band practice feel which alleviates the notion that jazz and blues are serious and high held, they just have fun with it. on any given Thursday there could be 3 instruments or 10, usually the same crowd but often welcoming new faces which is refreshing, if like me you try to go every week. you’ll find instrumental here and the oldies that tap along try and stick to the best seats (along the right hand side, facing the bar) but if you step out into the beer garden you’ll find that it’s also a popular student hang that often has an open mic setup. great atmosphere, friendly staff and lovely pints… can’t go wrong.
THE EMPIRE
Not jazz but an honourable mention to the Scott Taplin Blues Band that play The Empire Music Hall every Thursday, just great musicians that play the blues well. admission is free and they go till 1am. Great craic.
SCOTTS JAZZ CLUB
Discovering Scotts jazz club is what inspired me to write this piece, and I suppose pull the trigger on starting this blog. It’s not only the finest jazz venue in Belfast but just again and again the most enjoyable time. Nestled on the third floor of The Ballyhack Club, every Friday the host, Scott Flanigan puts on a masterclass of musicianship. Accompanied by other players from Belfast and beyond this is a true connoisseurs concert. I say concert because it is serious, the music I’ve heard here is serious. But not at all stuffy or uptight. welcomed into an intimate performance setting with some of the cheapest drinks in Belfast you’ll be lucky to find a seat at the front as this is a hotly anticipated weekly show for many people, just hope there isn’t an overly chatty girlfriend behind you or a tall bald man in front. The stage is through a maze of tables and chairs leading to smaller tables of two practically a part of the show. If your eyes somehow wonder from the stage, keep an eye out for the trippy visuals, a perfect accompaniment to the atmosphere of an East Belfast jazz club, created by lighting and soundman Cormac O’Kane. An obvious specialist. The Jazz played here is genuine, and the audience, full of other musicians and fans alike await the moment a musician relaxes on stage and lets their feelings flow. it can be loud, soft, a fight for time and space or tear jerking-ly beautiful and it happens here every week. its a real time capsule this place, you really feel safe and at home here knowing that the bar is always open, the carpets have been the same for years and some great nights have been had here, its the type of place The kinks or Sex Pistols could have played in the early days to a completely bewildered but engaged audience.
To conclude, I’m no musician, I’m not a writer and I’m not a tour guide either. But if you happen to be in Belfast and fancy a bit of jazz there are a few places to choose from, some good, some not so good, some worth a look in and one that plays to the highest level. Live Jazz is essential for the art of music, its the motion Pollock painted with, the accuracy of Tyson’s jab and the highest form of expressionism. Take what you will from this and I encourage you to find your own local club, bar or venue and see for yourself the uncertainty and excitement of jazz that thrills me.
Cheers.